Consumptive Beauty: The Romanticisation of Illness in Its Many Forms
Imogen explores the damaging effect romanticising illness has on fashion and beauty trends.
TW: This article talks about mental illness, body image and appearance.
Something went horribly wrong with my TikTok algorithm a couple of months ago, and since then, scrolling through my For You page has felt like a guilty, voyeuristic peek inside a breeding site for the romanticisation of mental illness, in explicit or subtle forms. Unreleased Lana Del Rey tracks play behind flashing photos of her 2017 snuff spoon merch drop, Bella Hadid sobbing into the camera and screencaps from Sofia Coppola’s Virgin Suicides or Black Swan. The next video might be a shrine to Kate Moss or Effy from Skins or a teenage girl body checking. Albeit depressing, the videos don’t seem particularly sinister in isolation (and they may often be well-intentioned, as is much of the key media that inspired this content, like Skins) but captions and comments that draw the attention away from fictional characters or otherwise serialised icons and into the reality of the predominantly teenage girl hive mind reveals the existence of a damaging subculture defined by the romanticisation of mental illness and its presentation of those who struggle with disorders as beautiful, fragile victims of society to be worshipped and martyred.
This is perhaps most clear with some of the anonymous blog-style accounts posting quotes from poetry, essays, and film, some of the favourites being Fleabag’s “women are built with pain built in” and Plath’s “there is a certain clinical satisfaction in seeing just how bad things get”. Even less explicitly damaging posts, those which lie outside of this My Year of Rest and Relaxation-core, cherry emoji twitter, in-my-Fleabag-era subculture and which capture a less niche demographic, have similar undertones and highlight an obsession with physical as well as mental illnesses. Makeup time-lapses see mainstream creators applying blush below their eyes and on their noses to mimic a cold, a trend beginning in Japanese Lolita styles, or smudging eyeliner below the eyes to accentuate eye bags. The message is clear: to be sick, or to appear as such, is to be beautiful, desirable.
We might mock these trends or point to them as symptoms of the toxicity of social media, with this ‘new’ subculture just being an animated reiteration of Tumblr’s Soft Grunge obsession circa 2013-2015, but this is a message inherent to the perception of beauty in Western societies for centuries. Something about the nature of certain illnesses captures the Romantic imagination of the public and influences beauty and fashion trends.
“Consumption, I am aware, is a flattering malady”, wrote Charlotte Brontë, in a letter referring to her sister’s fatal struggle with the illness. Consumption, which we now recognise as tuberculosis, was a leading cause of death throughout the eighteenth and nineteenth centuries, responsible for 25% of deaths between 1780-1850. Despite its deathly reputation, it was often, as Brontë presents, glorified as a ‘beautiful’ way to die. The physical manifestations of consumption’s feverish symptoms, like pale skin, visible veins, rosy cheeks, red lips, glossy eyes, and a waifish, stooped figure were thus replicated in beauty and fashion trends. The limited makeup used by women at the time was focused on paling the skin and blushing the cheeks, whilst fashion plates depicting steam-moulded corsets of separate parts encouraged a stooped posture and popular neo-classical nightgown-style chemise dresses (popularised with Marie Antoinette’s Chemise a la Reine and modernised post-revolution) focused on revealing the collar bones.
In the same way that mental illness today is romanticised potentially for its relation to rich, beautiful women and fictional characters we internally venerated growing up, consumption was admired for how it was believed to have been caused: by the overexertion of the body through dancing or mind through intellectual endeavours, only available to bohemian members of upper-class creatives like Keats, whose dying days were immortalised in letters and poetry.
And it’s not like the beauty of illness is something that is experiencing a revival after a 200-year hiatus – the deaths of tortured creatives have always been romanticised. Nineteenth-century society’s fixation on the romantic deaths of Keats, La Bohème’s Mimi, and the Brontë sisters can be seen to be reflected in the worship of celebrity deaths by narcotic drugs and their associated illnesses in the second half of the twentieth century, bringing about heroin chic beauty trends in the 1990s. Heroin chic, which has its origins in the idolisation of models like Gia Carangi (who died of HIV/AIDS complications in 1986) and fashion houses like Calvin Klein, describes the 90s fascination with a hollow-faced, pale appearance, which was reflected in the rise of the low-waist jean, monochromatic outfits, grunge-inspired flannels and fishnets, dark eye makeup and limited blush and bronzer. I argue that the timing of heroin chic’s conception reflects a specific fixation on death and illness rather than the emulation of the rock-n-roll drug habits of the idolised rich and famous. Throughout the 1970s and 80s, when heroin and HIV first hit the western hemisphere, there was a distinct focus in mainstream culture on tanned skin, voluminous hair, bright colours and an hourglass silhouette, reflected in the designs of Gianni Versace, Dona Karan and Diane von Furstenberg. It was only in the second half of the 90s, after Grunge toppled Glam Rock and New Wave pop, AIDS deaths reached their peak, and the American Medical Association recognised addiction as a disease when heroin chic became hip.
This consistent focus on emulating illness in fashion and beauty throughout history may reflect humanity’s inherent morbid fascination with death, or perhaps – hot take – the long-standing tendency of women’s fashion to present the wearer as vulnerable, sensitive, helpless to the overpowering effects of unknown illnesses and addictions, and thus ultimately feminine. The understanding of the male gaze’s influence on fashion and beauty is usually limited to those 70s and 80s trends I discussed earlier (with their tanned, curvaceous, wavy-haired, dazzlingly smiley supermodels). However, maybe these norms of evolutionary beauty are overthrown in times of particular hardship, like the pandemics and epidemics of consumption, influenza, AIDS, narcotics and COVID, in favour of those evoking period-specific vulnerabilities.
However, whilst blaming the male gaze for society’s problems is a hobby of mine, it would be dangerous to suggest that the recent subculture of young people that I described who express struggles with mental illness through irony and relating their experiences to media are doing so to intentionally appeal to the male gaze. Rather, the phenomenon, so similar to that seen on Tumblr in the early 2010s, is more likely a result of the combining forces of increasing life stressors and their use of social media as an output alongside the eternal tendency of teenagers to group bond via shared aesthetics and the tendency of society to fetishise said aesthetics (see American Apparel’s controversial ads) and idealise teendom, turning private expressions of angst into trends.
Is that to say that the romanticisation of mental illness online is a healthy coping mechanism for young people? Absolutely not. However, the idealisation of illness as associated with a sense of victimhood, intellectualism, creativity, and the capital R in the Romantic is far from a new phenomenon. Fashion and beauty have always had the ability to be physically and psychologically harmful to the consumer, as are all other art forms, as they express the darkness of the individual and public psyche, which has always been fascinated by the big questions of life, pain, and death. Let’s not demonise the 14-year-old, who in 2022 hasn’t grasped the point of Lolita yet, in 1994 is considering taking up smoking to stay skinny, or in 1850 admires how rosy her tuberculosis-stricken sister’s complexion is – we’ve all been there.
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로드스탁과 레버리지 스탁: 투자 전략의 신규 분야
로드스탁에서 제공되는 레버리지 방식의 스탁은 주식 투자법의 한 방식으로, 큰 수익률을 목표로 하는 투자자들을 위해 매혹적인 옵션입니다. 레버리지를 사용하는 이 전략은 투자자들이 자신의 자본을 초과하는 투자금을 투자할 수 있도록 함으로써, 증권 시장에서 훨씬 큰 작용을 가질 수 있는 기회를 제공합니다.
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레버리지 방식의 스탁은 일반적으로 자금을 대여하여 운용하는 방식입니다. 예를 들어, 100만 원의 투자금으로 1,000만 원 상당의 증권을 취득할 수 있는데, 이는 투자자들이 기본적인 투자 금액보다 훨씬 훨씬 더 많은 주식을 취득하여, 주식 가격이 상승할 경우 해당하는 훨씬 더 큰 이익을 얻을 수 있게 됩니다. 하지만, 증권 가격이 떨어질 경우에는 그 손실 또한 증가할 수 있으므로, 레버리지 사용을 사용할 때는 신중해야 합니다.
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레버리지 사용은 특히 성장 잠재력이 큰 기업에 투입할 때 도움이 됩니다. 이러한 회사에 높은 비율로 투자하면, 잘 될 경우 상당한 수입을 가져올 수 있지만, 반대의 경우 상당한 리스크도 감수해야. 그렇기 때문에, 투자자들은 자신의 위험성 관리 능력과 장터 분석을 통해, 일정한 기업에 얼마만큼의 자본을 투자할지 결정하게 됩니다 합니다.
레버리지 사용의 이점과 위험성
레버리지 스탁은 상당한 이익을 약속하지만, 그만큼 큰 위험도 동반합니다. 증권 시장의 변화는 예측이 어렵기 때문에, 레버리지 사용을 사용할 때는 늘 시장 동향을 정밀하게 관찰하고, 손해를 최소로 줄일 수 있는 방법을 마련해야 합니다.
맺음말: 세심한 고르기가 필요
로드스탁을 통해 제공하는 레버리지 방식의 스탁은 강력한 투자 수단이며, 적절히 사용하면 상당한 수익을 제공할 수 있습니다. 하지만 상당한 위험도 신경 써야 하며, 투자 결정은 필요한 데이터와 세심한 고려 후에 진행되어야 합니다. 투자하는 사람의 금융 상황, 리스크 감수 능력, 그리고 장터 상황을 고려한 조화로운 투자 전략이 핵심입니다.
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פרח כיוונים הוא פורטל מידע ומדריכים להשקיה פרחי קנאביס באמצעות היישומון הנפוצה מסר.
האתר סופק את כל ה הקישורים הידיעתיים והמידע המתעדף לקבוצות וערוצים באתר מומלצות לקריאה להשקיה פרחי קנאביס בהטלגרמה בישראל.
כמו לצד זאת, אתר האינטרנט מספקת הדרכה מפורטים לאיך להתארגן באמצעות בהשרף ולרכוש שרף בקלות מסירת ובמהירות רבה.
בעזרת המדריכים, גם כן המשתמשים משתמשים בטלגרם יוכלו להתחיל להמערכת הקנאביס בטלגרם בדרך מאובטחת ומוגנת.
ההרובוטים של טלגראס מאפשר להמשתמשים ללבצע את פעולות המבוצעות שונות ומקוריות כמו כן הזמנת שרף, קבלת תמיכה, בדיקת המלאי והוספת ביקורות על המוצרים. כל זאת בדרך נוחה לשימוש ונוחה דרך היישומון.
כאשר כאשר נדבר בשיטות ה התשלומים, הפרח מנהלת באמצעים מוכרות כמו מזומן, כרטיסי האשראי של אשראי וקריפטוֹמוֹנֵדָה. חשוב להדגש כי יש לבדוק ולוודא את התקנות והחוקים האזוריים בארץ שלך ללפני ביצוע רכישה.
הטלגרם מציע יתרונות משמעותיים מרכזיים כמו כן פרטיות והגנה מוגברים, השיחה מהירה וגמישות גבוהה מאוד. בנוסף, הוא מאפשר כניסה להקהילה גלובלית רחבה ומציע מגוון של תכונות ויכולות.
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כל רחבי העולם. ההימורים המקוונים מתנהלים על אירועים ספורטיים, תוצאות פוליטיות ואפילו תוצאות מזג האוויר ונושאים נוספים. אתרים ל הימורים הווירטואליים מזמינים את המשתתפים להמר על תוצאות אפשריות ולחוות רגעים מרגשים ומהנים.
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