In Defence of Couture: Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023

By Editor 2 years ago

Imogen defends Schiaparelli’s latest controversial collection, and explores how it symbolises the divide between haute couture and ready-to-wear.

Daniel Roseberry’s 8th Schiaparelli couture show at the Petit Palais in January was immediately followed by waves of online admiration and condemnation for its hyperrealistic animal heads of hand-sculpted foam, silk faux fur, resin and wool attached to garments. Whilst many applauded the display of intricate craftsmanship and thoughtful artistic expression (the leopard, lion, and she-wolf represent lust, pride and avarice respectively in an illusionistic and surrealistic reflection on themes of human powerlessness in Dante’s Inferno), others accused Roseberry of glorifying poaching and the objectification of animals. For me, the question as to whether it is ethical to incorporate animal motifs or faux furs and skins in fashion is not one I am particularly interested in humouring.

 

Source: Vogue Runway

 

Debates like these overshadow the artistry and craftsmanship of couture, and are, frankly, a misdirection of criticism towards the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry. Whilst we tut at Kylie’s lion shoulder companion, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada continue to use exotic skins. Meanwhile, fast fashion companies exploit human and natural resources and exacerbate issues of global poverty, pollution, and excessive water use. With this in mind, I refuse to force a projection of environmental discourse onto my discussion of the Schiaparelli show. Instead, we should celebrate it for what it is: an extraordinary display of artistic ingenuity and legacy, a key moment in the long history of the Schiaparelli house and Haute Couture as a tradition.

 

The shock inspired in audiences upon viewing the surreal, illusionistic pieces isn’t a new age marketing gimmick, but rather reflects the Schiaparelli legacy. Founded in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli with a line of Trompe-L’œil knitwear, the house was deeply integrated within the surrealist movement, frequently collaborating with artists like Dalí, Man Ray, and Cocteau. Furs, animal motifs, oversized jewellery, liberative and masculine silhouettes were central tenets of Schiaparelli’s designs – these features, along with an interest in philosophical and intellectual artistic expression have been continued by Roseberry. Such a faithful homage to brand identity, as we saw in this most recent show, is rare in the rapidly commercialising world of couture. At the end of 2019, Schiaparelli was one of just 16 members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, and one of the only ones to be embracing its roots. It’s crucial that we take this into account when we critique the show – as elitist as it sounds, couture should not be held to the same standards as Ready-to-Wear, as it operates under an entirely different context of production, aiming to push boundaries of fashion in the name of artistic exploration rather than profit gains. Indeed, Roseberry’s show notes mirror this idea, expressing a concern for “the twinned, sometimes contradictory impulses to please one’s audience and to impress oneself; the ambivalence that is every artist’s constant companion.”

 

Source: Vogue Runway

 

In this way, criticisms that proclaim “we have to stop showing animals as luxury ‘products’” or “we’re past the point of putting animals on clothes in this way.”, whilst valid, erase the true status of couture pieces. Roseberry’s animal heads are not ‘luxury products’ like a handbag or pair of sunglasses, made to boost a house’s profits to fund more ambitious projects, nor are they merely ‘clothes’ – as unpretentiously as possible, I sustain that they are a form of fine art. Damien Hirst’s use of preserved animal bodies in his conceptual sculptures, though criticised by some within the art community, is largely accepted and applauded in mainstream media – indeed, he’s the richest artist alive today. Why then, are Roseberry’s ethically-produced, made-to-order pieces not regarded with the same level of artistic appreciation? A reevaluation of how we talk about haute couture in the media may be necessary to restore its status as wearable fine art.

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  472. ggg
    هنا النص مع استخدام السبينتاكس:

    “بناء الروابط الخلفية

    بعد التحديثات العديدة لمحرك البحث G، تحتاج إلى تطبيق خيارات ترتيب مختلفة.

    هناك أسلوب لجذب انتباه محركات البحث إلى موقعك على الويب باستخدام الروابط الخلفية.

    الروابط الخلفية غير فقط أداة فعالة للترويج، ولكن لديها أيضًا حركة مرور عضوية، والمبيعات المباشرة من هذه الموارد على الأرجح ستكون كذلك، ولكن التحولات ستكون، وهي حركة المرور التي نحصل عليها أيضًا.

    ما سنحصل عليه في النهاية في النهاية في الإخراج:

    نعرض الموقع لمحركات البحث من خلال الروابط الخلفية.
    2- نحصل على تحويلات عضوية إلى الموقع، وهي أيضًا إشارة لمحركات البحث أن المورد يستخدمه الناس.

    كيف نظهر لمحركات البحث أن الموقع سائل:
    1 يتم عمل رابط خلفي للصفحة الرئيسية حيث المعلومات الرئيسية

    نقوم بعمل صلات خلفية من خلال عمليات تحويل المواقع الموثوقة
    الأهم من ذلك أننا نضع الموقع على أداة منفصلة من أساليب تحليل المواقع، ويدخل الموقع في ذاكرة التخزين المؤقت لهذه المحللات، ثم الروابط المستلمة التي نضعها كتوجيه على المدونات والمنتديات والتعليقات.
    هذا الإجراء المهم يُبرز لمحركات البحث خارطة الموقع، حيث تعرض أدوات تحليل المواقع جميع المعلومات عن المواقع مع جميع الكلمات الرئيسية والعناوين وهو عمل جيد جداً
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  502. 娛樂城評價
    Player娛樂城遊戲評測網 《娛樂城評價》分類專區，幫您整了出網路上各大線上娛樂城重點摘要，以便您快速了解各大娛樂城重點資訊。

    錢盈娛樂城介紹
    錢盈娛樂城於2022年成立，是一個專注於現金投注的線上遊戲平台，提供了包括體育賭博、真人百家樂、老虎機、彩票和電子遊戲等多樣化的遊戲選…

    F1方程式娛樂城介紹
    F1方程式娛樂城屬於小型線上娛樂城版，整體晚間非常簡陋而且含有諸多瑕疵以及不完善，首先奇怪的點在於完全沒有可以註冊的地方，我們這邊猜測…

    CZ168娛樂城介紹
    CZ168娛樂城在雖然在簡介中自稱有12年的經營時間，但是經過我們實際的調查以及訪問該品牌網頁後發現，並沒有任何12年前或是更近的資料…

    包你發娛樂城介紹
    包你發娛樂城是個很多明星都在代言的線上賭博平台，玩家在這裡是用虛擬貨幣來存款，算是那種幣商型的賭場。這個平台沒有直接的提款選項，玩家要…

    富遊娛樂城介紹
    隨著2024年的到來，最新的線上娛樂平台排行榜已經更新，這一次的排名綜合考慮了各種因素，包括體驗金、促銷活動、提款效率和遊戲多樣性，目…

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  503. 九州娛樂
    九州娛樂城介紹
    九州娛樂城
    九州娛樂城，也被稱作LEO娛樂城，致力於打造一個既安全又方便、公平公正的高品質娛樂服務平台。我們的目標是創造全新的線上娛樂城體驗，普及化娛樂服務，並努力成為娛樂網站界的領頭羊。需要注意的是，九州娛樂城、LEO娛樂城和THA娛樂城實際上是同一家公司的不同名稱。

    九州娛樂城簡介
    推薦指數：★★★★★（5分）

    品牌名稱 : 九州娛樂城(LEO娛樂城)
    創立時間 : 2003年
    賭場類型 : 現金版娛樂城
    遊戲種類 : 真人百家樂、運彩投注、電子老虎機、六合彩球、棋牌遊戲、捕魚機遊戲
    存取速度 : 存款90秒 / 提款5-10分
    軟體下載 : 無APP下載，支援網頁投注

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  504. Player線上娛樂城遊戲指南與評測

    台灣最佳線上娛樂城遊戲的終極指南！我們提供專業評測，分析熱門老虎機、百家樂、棋牌及其他賭博遊戲。從遊戲規則、策略到選擇最佳娛樂城，我們全方位覆蓋，協助您更安全的遊玩。

    Player如何評測：公正與專業的評分標準
    在【Player娛樂城遊戲評測網】我們致力於為玩家提供最公正、最專業的娛樂城評測。我們的評測過程涵蓋多個關鍵領域，旨在確保玩家獲得可靠且全面的信息。以下是我們評測娛樂城的主要步驟：

    娛樂城是什麼？

    娛樂城是什麼?娛樂城是台灣對於線上賭場的特別稱呼，線上賭場分為幾種：現金版、信用版、手機娛樂城(娛樂城APP)，一般來說，台灣人在稱娛樂城時，是指現金版線上賭場。

    線上賭場在別的國家也有別的名稱，美國 – Casino, Gambling、中國 – 线上赌场,娱乐城、日本 – オンラインカジノ、越南 – Nhà cái。

    娛樂城會被抓嗎？

    在台灣，根據刑法第266條，不論是實體或線上賭博，參與賭博的行為可處最高5萬元罰金。而根據刑法第268條，為賭博提供場所並意圖營利的行為，可能面臨3年以下有期徒刑及最高9萬元罰金。一般賭客若被抓到，通常被視為輕微罪行，原則上不會被判處監禁。

    信用版娛樂城是什麼？

    信用版娛樂城是一種線上賭博平台，其中的賭博活動不是直接以現金進行交易，而是基於信用系統。在這種模式下，玩家在進行賭博時使用虛擬的信用點數或籌碼，這些點數或籌碼代表了一定的貨幣價值，但實際的金錢交易會在賭博活動結束後進行結算。

    現金版娛樂城是什麼？

    現金版娛樂城是一種線上博弈平台，其中玩家使用實際的金錢進行賭博活動。玩家需要先存入真實貨幣，這些資金轉化為平台上的遊戲籌碼或信用，用於參與各種賭場遊戲。當玩家贏得賭局時，他們可以將這些籌碼或信用兌換回現金。

    娛樂城體驗金是什麼？

    娛樂城體驗金是娛樂場所為新客戶提供的一種免費遊玩資金，允許玩家在不需要自己投入任何資金的情況下，可以進行各類遊戲的娛樂城試玩。這種體驗金的數額一般介於100元到1,000元之間，且對於如何使用這些體驗金以達到提款條件，各家娛樂城設有不同的規則。

    Reply

  506. Player線上娛樂城遊戲指南與評測

    台灣最佳線上娛樂城遊戲的終極指南！我們提供專業評測，分析熱門老虎機、百家樂、棋牌及其他賭博遊戲。從遊戲規則、策略到選擇最佳娛樂城，我們全方位覆蓋，協助您更安全的遊玩。

    Player如何評測：公正與專業的評分標準
    在【Player娛樂城遊戲評測網】我們致力於為玩家提供最公正、最專業的娛樂城評測。我們的評測過程涵蓋多個關鍵領域，旨在確保玩家獲得可靠且全面的信息。以下是我們評測娛樂城的主要步驟：

    娛樂城是什麼？

    娛樂城是什麼?娛樂城是台灣對於線上賭場的特別稱呼，線上賭場分為幾種：現金版、信用版、手機娛樂城(娛樂城APP)，一般來說，台灣人在稱娛樂城時，是指現金版線上賭場。

    線上賭場在別的國家也有別的名稱，美國 – Casino, Gambling、中國 – 线上赌场,娱乐城、日本 – オンラインカジノ、越南 – Nhà cái。

    娛樂城會被抓嗎？

    在台灣，根據刑法第266條，不論是實體或線上賭博，參與賭博的行為可處最高5萬元罰金。而根據刑法第268條，為賭博提供場所並意圖營利的行為，可能面臨3年以下有期徒刑及最高9萬元罰金。一般賭客若被抓到，通常被視為輕微罪行，原則上不會被判處監禁。

    信用版娛樂城是什麼？

    信用版娛樂城是一種線上賭博平台，其中的賭博活動不是直接以現金進行交易，而是基於信用系統。在這種模式下，玩家在進行賭博時使用虛擬的信用點數或籌碼，這些點數或籌碼代表了一定的貨幣價值，但實際的金錢交易會在賭博活動結束後進行結算。

    現金版娛樂城是什麼？

    現金版娛樂城是一種線上博弈平台，其中玩家使用實際的金錢進行賭博活動。玩家需要先存入真實貨幣，這些資金轉化為平台上的遊戲籌碼或信用，用於參與各種賭場遊戲。當玩家贏得賭局時，他們可以將這些籌碼或信用兌換回現金。

    娛樂城體驗金是什麼？

    娛樂城體驗金是娛樂場所為新客戶提供的一種免費遊玩資金，允許玩家在不需要自己投入任何資金的情況下，可以進行各類遊戲的娛樂城試玩。這種體驗金的數額一般介於100元到1,000元之間，且對於如何使用這些體驗金以達到提款條件，各家娛樂城設有不同的規則。

    Reply

  507. 娛樂城推薦
    Player線上娛樂城遊戲指南與評測

    台灣最佳線上娛樂城遊戲的終極指南！我們提供專業評測，分析熱門老虎機、百家樂、棋牌及其他賭博遊戲。從遊戲規則、策略到選擇最佳娛樂城，我們全方位覆蓋，協助您更安全的遊玩。

    Player如何評測：公正與專業的評分標準
    在【Player娛樂城遊戲評測網】我們致力於為玩家提供最公正、最專業的娛樂城評測。我們的評測過程涵蓋多個關鍵領域，旨在確保玩家獲得可靠且全面的信息。以下是我們評測娛樂城的主要步驟：

    娛樂城是什麼？

    娛樂城是什麼?娛樂城是台灣對於線上賭場的特別稱呼，線上賭場分為幾種：現金版、信用版、手機娛樂城(娛樂城APP)，一般來說，台灣人在稱娛樂城時，是指現金版線上賭場。

    線上賭場在別的國家也有別的名稱，美國 – Casino, Gambling、中國 – 线上赌场,娱乐城、日本 – オンラインカジノ、越南 – Nhà cái。

    娛樂城會被抓嗎？

    在台灣，根據刑法第266條，不論是實體或線上賭博，參與賭博的行為可處最高5萬元罰金。而根據刑法第268條，為賭博提供場所並意圖營利的行為，可能面臨3年以下有期徒刑及最高9萬元罰金。一般賭客若被抓到，通常被視為輕微罪行，原則上不會被判處監禁。

    信用版娛樂城是什麼？

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    국외선물은 크게 매수 옵션과 매도 옵션으로 나뉩니다. 매수 옵션은 명시된 기초자산을 미래에 정해진 가격에 사는 권리를 제공하는 반면, 매도 옵션은 지정된 기초자산을 미래에 일정 가격에 매도할 수 있는 권리를 제공합니다.

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    행사 가격(Exercise Price): 해외선물에서 실행 가격은 옵션 계약에 따라 지정된 가격으로 계약됩니다. 종료일에 이 금액을 기준으로 옵션을 실행할 수 있습니다.
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    계약료(Premium): 해외선물 거래에서는 옵션 계약에 대한 계약료을 지불해야 합니다. 이는 옵션 계약에 대한 가격으로, 마켓에서의 수요량와 공급에 따라 변화됩니다.
    실행 방안(Exercise Strategy): 투자자는 종료일에 옵션을 행사할지 여부를 판단할 수 있습니다. 이는 시장 상황 및 투자 전략에 따라 상이하며, 옵션 계약의 수익을 최대화하거나 손해를 최소화하기 위해 선택됩니다.
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