In Defence of Couture: Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023

By Editor 1 year ago

Imogen defends Schiaparelli’s latest controversial collection, and explores how it symbolises the divide between haute couture and ready-to-wear.

Daniel Roseberry’s 8th Schiaparelli couture show at the Petit Palais in January was immediately followed by waves of online admiration and condemnation for its hyperrealistic animal heads of hand-sculpted foam, silk faux fur, resin and wool attached to garments. Whilst many applauded the display of intricate craftsmanship and thoughtful artistic expression (the leopard, lion, and she-wolf represent lust, pride and avarice respectively in an illusionistic and surrealistic reflection on themes of human powerlessness in Dante’s Inferno), others accused Roseberry of glorifying poaching and the objectification of animals. For me, the question as to whether it is ethical to incorporate animal motifs or faux furs and skins in fashion is not one I am particularly interested in humouring.

 

Source: Vogue Runway

 

Debates like these overshadow the artistry and craftsmanship of couture, and are, frankly, a misdirection of criticism towards the environmental and social impacts of the fashion industry. Whilst we tut at Kylie’s lion shoulder companion, Hermès, Louis Vuitton, Gucci, and Prada continue to use exotic skins. Meanwhile, fast fashion companies exploit human and natural resources and exacerbate issues of global poverty, pollution, and excessive water use. With this in mind, I refuse to force a projection of environmental discourse onto my discussion of the Schiaparelli show. Instead, we should celebrate it for what it is: an extraordinary display of artistic ingenuity and legacy, a key moment in the long history of the Schiaparelli house and Haute Couture as a tradition.

 

The shock inspired in audiences upon viewing the surreal, illusionistic pieces isn’t a new age marketing gimmick, but rather reflects the Schiaparelli legacy. Founded in 1927 by Elsa Schiaparelli with a line of Trompe-L’œil knitwear, the house was deeply integrated within the surrealist movement, frequently collaborating with artists like Dalí, Man Ray, and Cocteau. Furs, animal motifs, oversized jewellery, liberative and masculine silhouettes were central tenets of Schiaparelli’s designs – these features, along with an interest in philosophical and intellectual artistic expression have been continued by Roseberry. Such a faithful homage to brand identity, as we saw in this most recent show, is rare in the rapidly commercialising world of couture. At the end of 2019, Schiaparelli was one of just 16 members of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture, and one of the only ones to be embracing its roots. It’s crucial that we take this into account when we critique the show – as elitist as it sounds, couture should not be held to the same standards as Ready-to-Wear, as it operates under an entirely different context of production, aiming to push boundaries of fashion in the name of artistic exploration rather than profit gains. Indeed, Roseberry’s show notes mirror this idea, expressing a concern for “the twinned, sometimes contradictory impulses to please one’s audience and to impress oneself; the ambivalence that is every artist’s constant companion.”

 

Source: Vogue Runway

 

In this way, criticisms that proclaim “we have to stop showing animals as luxury ‘products’” or “we’re past the point of putting animals on clothes in this way.”, whilst valid, erase the true status of couture pieces. Roseberry’s animal heads are not ‘luxury products’ like a handbag or pair of sunglasses, made to boost a house’s profits to fund more ambitious projects, nor are they merely ‘clothes’ – as unpretentiously as possible, I sustain that they are a form of fine art. Damien Hirst’s use of preserved animal bodies in his conceptual sculptures, though criticised by some within the art community, is largely accepted and applauded in mainstream media – indeed, he’s the richest artist alive today. Why then, are Roseberry’s ethically-produced, made-to-order pieces not regarded with the same level of artistic appreciation? A reevaluation of how we talk about haute couture in the media may be necessary to restore its status as wearable fine art.

Comments

comments

Tags: , , , , ,

90 thoughts on “In Defence of Couture: Schiaparelli Haute Couture Spring/Summer 2023”

  10. Woah! I’m really enjoying the template/theme of this website. It’s simple, yet effective. A lot of times it’s tough to get that “perfect balance” between superb usability and appearance. I must say you’ve done a amazing job with this. Additionally, the blog loads super fast for me on Chrome. Outstanding Blog!

    Reply

  16. I’m really enjoying the theme/design of your blog. Do you ever run into any browser compatibility issues? A number of my blog visitors have complained about my blog not operating correctly in Explorer but looks great in Safari. Do you have any ideas to help fix this issue?

    Reply

  18. This is without a doubt one of the greatest articles I’ve read on this topic! The author’s comprehensive knowledge and enthusiasm for the subject are evident in every paragraph. I’m so grateful for stumbling upon this piece as it has deepened my knowledge and ignited my curiosity even further. Thank you, author, for investing the time to produce such a remarkable article!

    Reply

  23. Spot on with this write-up, I honestly believe this website needs much more attention. I’ll probably be returning to read through more, thanks for the information!

    Reply

  24. I do consider all of the ideas you have presented for your post.
    They’re very convincing and will definitely work.
    Still, the posts are too brief for beginners.
    May just you please lengthen them a bit from subsequent time?

    Thanks for the post.

    Reply

  28. Howdy, I think your site could possibly be having browser compatibility issues. Whenever I take a look at your web site in Safari, it looks fine but when opening in Internet Explorer, it’s got some overlapping issues. I simply wanted to provide you with a quick heads up! Apart from that, fantastic blog!

    Reply

  30. Wonderful goods from you, man. I have be mindful your stuff prior to and you’re just too great. I actually like what you have obtained here, really like what you are stating and the way in which you say it. You make it entertaining and you continue to take care of to stay it sensible. I can’t wait to read much more from you. This is really a terrific site.

    Reply

  32. Thanks for the recommendations you have discussed here. Yet another thing I would like to convey is that pc memory needs generally increase along with other developments in the engineering. For instance, as soon as new generations of processor chips are brought to the market, there is certainly usually a matching increase in the size and style calls for of both the computer system memory as well as hard drive space. This is because the program operated by means of these processors will inevitably increase in power to leverage the new technological innovation.

    Reply

  34. PBN sites
    We shall build a system of PBN sites!

    Pros of our privately-owned blog network:

    We perform everything SO THAT google does not comprehend that THIS IS A self-owned blog network!!!

    1- We purchase domain names from distinct registrars

    2- The leading site is hosted on a VPS hosting (VPS is high-speed hosting)

    3- Additional sites are on various hostings

    4- We attribute a individual Google profile to each site with verification in Search Console.

    5- We design websites on WordPress, we do not employ plugins with the help of which Trojans penetrate and through which pages on your websites are generated.

    6- We do not duplicate templates and utilise only distinct text and pictures

    We refrain from work with website design; the client, if wished, can then edit the websites to suit his wishes

    Reply

  35. Howdy! This post couldn’t be written much better! Looking at this post reminds me of my previous roommate! He always kept talking about this. I will send this information to him. Fairly certain he will have a great read. I appreciate you for sharing!

    Reply

  40. Another important part is that if you are an older person, travel insurance regarding pensioners is something you should really take into account. The more aged you are, a lot more at risk you’re for making something undesirable happen to you while in another country. If you are definitely not covered by several comprehensive insurance coverage, you could have a number of serious complications. Thanks for expressing your advice on this web site.

    Reply

  43. Greetings, I think your website may be having internet browser compatibility problems. Whenever I take a look at your website in Safari, it looks fine but when opening in Internet Explorer, it’s got some overlapping issues. I merely wanted to provide you with a quick heads up! Besides that, wonderful site!

    Reply

  45. I would also love to add if you do not already have got an insurance policy or maybe you do not form part of any group insurance, you could well benefit from seeking the assistance of a health broker. Self-employed or people with medical conditions ordinarily seek the help of the health insurance dealer. Thanks for your text.

    Reply

  58. After going over a number of the blog articles on your site, I honestly like your technique of blogging. I saved as a favorite it to my bookmark site list and will be checking back in the near future. Please check out my website as well and let me know how you feel.

    Reply

  64. They call me Will Reep nevertheless, you can call me anything.
    I am currently an administrative assistant. Some time ago he made a decision to
    live in Minnesota. I am really inclined to to solve puzzles and I’ve been doing it for several
    years.

    Reply

  69. Greetings. The author’s name is Will Cifuentes.
    Invoicing is his profession. District of Columbia is my living
    place there isn’t anything don’t begin changing in which. What he really enjoys doing is
    bottle tops collecting and they is making it a profession.

    Reply

  75. Hello friend. Let me introduce myself. I am Tod Reep
    but I never really liked that name. His wife and him chose to
    call home North Carolina. For years I have been working as being a production and planning company.
    What she loves doing is caving and she’s been doing it
    for a reasonably while.

    Reply

  84. I like the helpful info you provide in your articles.
    I’ll bookmark your weblog and check again here frequently.
    I’m quite sure I’ll learn lots of new stuff right here! Good luck for the next!

    Reply

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

THE STAND